The covered passages of Paris have intrigued me ever since I first wandered along one: my eyes were torn between the ornate glass ceiling, the old-school shop fronts and the charming tiled floor. After this, I made it my mission to visit every single one, in search of the best covered passages.
These covered passages are one of the many charming features of the city and many remain somewhat off the beaten track in Paris. I suspect not many people seek out the covered passages on their first visit to Paris, but they are fascinating parts of the city and the best ones are worth experiencing if you want to get to know Paris better.
Many retain their attractive original 19th-century features and are home to quaint independent shops and cafes. These are a delight to wander through.
However, there are also many which are half-empty, run-down and/or quite depressing. So, to avoid disappointment, check out this original and comprehensive guide to the best covered passages in Paris, the most beautiful ones, those that are worth a look if you’re in the area – and those to avoid.
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Table of Contents
What Are The Covered Passages Of Paris?
Let’s start with a brief history of the covered passages. From the late 1700s and through to the mid-1800s, many covered passages were built in Paris, designed to be a more pleasant shopping experience for wealthy patrons than the dirty Paris streets. These passages couverts were walkways with shops and cafes, protected from the elements by a vaulted ceiling. Typical features include wrought iron and glass ceilings, traditional wooden shopfronts & decorative tiled floors.
By around 1850, there were over 150 of them in Paris. However, then came the ambitious Haussmann redesign of Paris and the works to create wide boulevards and mansion buildings destroyed many of the covered passages. Soon, the new grand department stores like Galeries Lafayette, Printemps and La Samaritaine were a more glamourous and convenient draw for shoppers.
These days, as far as I can tell, 25 covered passages remain (a few of them only partially-covered) – and yes, I have visited all of them! And I’ve been back over and over to my favourites (I visit Paris a lot, hehe).
Where Can I Find The Covered Passages Of Paris?
Most of the remaining covered passages of Paris are on the Right Bank of the Seine, and mainly in the 2nd, 8th and 9th arrondissements.
I’ve included a map of the covered passages at the end of this article. You can use this to find the covered passages you are interested in.
Whilst I enjoy exploring Paris’s covered passages myself independently, if you prefer guided tours to independent exploration, there is a guided tour of covered passages in Paris you can take instead.
The Best Covered Passages In Paris
These six are the covered passages I like the most, based on how attractive their architecture and design are, combined with the kind of shops or eateries you can find there. The general atmosphere within the passages also plays a role. I think that wandering through these covered passages is a lovely way to spend time – I’ve done it solo and with friends many times, but it could also be one of the romantic things to do in Paris for couples.
1. Passage des Panoramas
Passage des Panoramas is one of the oldest covered passages in Paris, having been built in 1800. It was named for two rotundas with panoramic paintings of Paris and other cities, which have since been removed. It was also mentioned in Émile Zola’s novel Nana.
This one is possibly my favourite covered passage in Paris (and also the first I stumbled upon). Passage des Panoramas is not as smart and elegant as some of the other passages, but its mismatch of tiled flooring and fixtures give it a distinct personality, which appeals to me. It retains its 19th-century character but still feels alive and vibrant.
What’s it like?
Shops: It has several specialist stamp shops, as well as other collectables like prints, postcards, coins and autographs. There’s also a small, quaint wine shop.
Places to eat & drink: it also has plenty of cafes, including French, Japanese, Argentinian and Indian food. There’s various street food-type places including burgers and gyoza. With so many to choose from, it is somewhere you could hang out and enjoy, which is great if you’re looking for somewhere to seek shelter if it rains or if you’re in Paris in winter.
My favourite parts of Passage des Panoramas: I love the look of Canard & Champagne, one of the French restaurants in the passage, which has plenty of ‘terrace’ seating in the passage itself. However, their menu is almost exclusively duck. I have never been in the mood for it when I’ve been in there, so I’ve only admired it as I wander past.
I also like the old stamp shops – for browsing, rather than buying. And I like the choice of eateries. I ate at Zola Pizza and had a really nice crispy artichoke salad there – highly recommended!
Practical details for Passage des Panoramas
Where is it? You can find entrances to Passage des Panoramas at 11 Boulevard Montmartre (opposite the entrance to Passage Jouffroy), 158 rue Montmartre, 10 Rue Saint-Marc, and 38 Rue Vivienne, in the 2nd arrondissement.
Closest Metro station: Grands Boulevards and Richelieu – Drouot
Opening times: 6 am to midnight.
2. Passage Choiseul
Passage Choiseul was built between 1826 and 1827 and features in the novels of Louis-Ferdinand Céline. His descriptions of it were not very favourable (something about the smell of gas lamps and urine!), but it was renovated and re-opened to the public in 2013 – and it is rather delightful these days!
What’s it like?
Once you get past the unassuming entrance, inside you’ll find a smart and pretty passage. At 190 meters long, it is the longest covered passage in the city and is a registered historic monument in France.
There’s an Asian theme here, especially at the south end, including several different Asian food places (including Indian, Korean, Vietnamese, Thai / Lao, sushi & ramen), but also Japanese art, a Japanese doll shop and a manga-style shop.
Shops: There’s plenty to discover, including an art studio, a gallery, antiques, clothes, jewellery and crafts. There’s also a theatre here.
Places to eat & drink: as well as the Asian cuisines I already mentioned, you can find Greek food here, as well as French and Italian. There’s a lot to choose between!
My favourite parts of Passage Choiseul: Because it’s long, I like wandering up and down the full length of the passage, taking my time to take it all in. I also like that they have a Joyeux cafe here. This is a chain of coffee shops that employ people with learning difficulties. I really enjoyed a coffee and a rest here after walking around Paris for a while.
Practical details for Passage Choiseul
Where is it: Passage Choiseul is in the Opera area, in the 2nd arrondissement. You can find entrances to Passage Choiseul at 40 Rue des Petits Champs, 23 Rue Saint-Augustin and 40 Rue Dalayrac. There’s also an entrance via Passage Sainte-Anne on Rue Sainte-Anne.
Closest Metro station: Quatre-Septembre.
Opening times: Monday to Saturday, 8:30 am – 7:45 pm.
3. Passage du Grand Cerf
Built in 1825, Passage du Grand Cerf is named for a stag’s head that is on display in the Rue Saint-Denis entrance
What’s it like?
Passage du Grand Cerf has one of the highest ceilings of all the covered passages in Paris, which, combined with its fancy red carpet, gives the passage a real sense of grandeur.
Despite this, it has quite a quirky personality, and you’ll find plenty of interesting features like models of animals and playful signs. It has a lot of craft shops, as well as fabric shops. You can also find some antiques, jewellery and Nik-naks here.
My favourite part of Passage du Grand Cerf: just the general quirkiness and sense of whimsy! It’s a fun one to wander through if you want to see something a little different.
Practical details for Passage du Grand Cerf
Where is it: You can find entrances to Passage du Grand Cerf at 10 Rue Dussoubs and 145 Rue Saint-Denis the 2nd arrondissement.
Closest Metro station: Étienne Marcel
Opening times: Monday to Saturday, 8.30 am to 8.30 pm.
4. Passage Verdeau
If you love old books, you’ll love Passage Verdeau because this handsome passage, built in 1847, has a lot of vintage bookshops and antiques.
What’s it like?
With these antique shops and much of its original design features, it feels a little like a 19th century time capsule. Overall, it is a pleasant place to spend time browsing and shopping.
Shops: as I said, there are several rare / old book shops, as well as a number of art and print shops and antiques. You can also get gifts, trinkets and some curiosities here.
Places to eat & drink: there’s a ramen place that seems popular and often has queues, plus a bistrot that does happy hour drinks.
My favourite part of Passage Verdeau: Aside from the enchanting old book covers, one of my favourite things about this passage is that it was used as a location for the Bourne Identity – Le Bistrot Verdeau is where Jason and Marie are when she tells him she located the body they were looking for. It was this movie that got me interested in covered passages in Paris in the first place: I was looking at that scene thinking, ‘where is that place…?’
Practical details for Passage Verdeau
Where is it: You can find entrances to Passage Verdeau at 31 Rue Du Faubourg Montmartre and 6 Rue De La Grange Bateliere, in the 9th arrondissement.
Closest Metro station: Le Peletier and Grands Boulevards
Opening times: Monday to Friday, 7:30 am-9 pm. Weekends, 7:30 am-8:30 pm.
5. Passage Jouffroy
Passage Jouffroy was built by the same company as Passage Verdeau (overseen by Count Félix de Jouffroy-Gonsans, who gave it his name) and has an entrance opposite Passage Verdeau on Rue Du Faubourg Montmartre. Opened in 1845, it was the first Parisian passage built entirely of metal and glass. Only the decorative elements are wooden. It was also the first to be heated from the ground!
What’s it like?
It has an interesting quirk which is a corner in the middle, where the route bends around existing structures. It also contains an entrance to Hotel Chopin.
Shops: it has a bit more variety than it’s neighbour. Like Passage Verdeau, it has lots of charming old bookshops and art shops, plus some selling vintage posters. It also has an artist’s workshop, where you might see the artist working, which is quite a interesting feature! You can also find shops that sell toys, jewellery, comics, gifts, souvenirs, chocolate, vintage clothes and there’s an old fashioned umbrella shop, Galerie Fayet.
Places to eat & drink: there are a few choices, including and a lovely tearoom, Valentin Tea Rooms, a traditional restaurant, Le Ronceray, and a classic french cafe, Le Cafe Zephyr.
My favourite part of Passage Jouffroy: this one has a great combination of attractive architecture with a lot of choice of relatively fancier shops. I wasn’t in the market to buy any, but I enjoyed browsing the ostentatious Faberge-style eggs and Venetian masks at La Maison du Roy.
Practical details for Passage Jouffroy
Where is it: You can find entrances to Passage Jouffroy at 9 Rue De La Grange Bateliere, and 10-12 Boulevard Montmartre, in the 9th arrondissement.
Closest Metro station: Grands Boulevards and Richelieu – Drouot
Opening times: 7 am to 9 pm.
6. Galerie Vivienne
Built in 1923, Galerie Vivienne is famed for its neo-classical Pompeian-style mosaics and reliefs, as well as an elegant canopy. It is somehow both ornate and calm – really quite beautiful.
What’s it like?
I always think this place feels quieter than it should, considering how attractive it is. But maybe I’ve just been lucky enough to stop by at quieter times, I don’t know…
Shops: the theme here is boutique clothing and accessories stores: there are quite a few of them, generally quite high-end.
Places to eat & drink: There is a bistro and a very fancy-looking wine shop near the main entrance on Rue des Petits Champs. And it has one of the best cocktail bars in Paris: Danico. It’s a speakeasy style bar, which you enter through Daroco restaurant.
My favourite parts of Galerie Vivienne: it’s a toss-up between the elegant beauty of the passage itself and the cute bookshop at the top end, Libraire Ancienne Moderne.
Practical details for Galerie Vivienne
Where is it: You can find entrances to Galerie Vivienne at 4 Rue des Petits Champs, 6 Rue Vivienne and 5 Rue de la Banque, in the 2nd arrondissement.
Closest Metro station: Pyramides
Opening times: Every day, 8.30 am to 8 pm.
Beautiful Covered Passages In Paris
These covered passages are really attractive and are worth a visit for their architecture and design. However, they come with a warning that they sometimes lack atmosphere – often because they have few open shops and /or the passage attracts few shoppers.
7. Galerie Colbert
Built in 1823 to compete with next door’s Galerie Vivienne, Galerie Colbert is unlike other covered passages that you can visit, because it has no shops. It houses the Institut Nationale d’Histoire de l’Art (INHA) and the Institut National du Patrimoine (INP), which require a bag check on arrival at the passage. It was classified Historical Monument in 1974.
What’s it like? It is very grand and has some really ornate designs, marble pillars and a spectacular glass-domed rotunda towards the back. However, due to the lack of shops and foot traffic, as elegant as it is, it lacks atmosphere. The only life to be found is in the Art Nouveau-style brasserie, Le Grand Colbert, near the entrance.
Where is it: You can find entrances to Galerie Colbert at 6 Rue des Petits Champs and 2-4 Rue Vivienne, in the 2nd arrondissement.
Closest Metro station: Pyramides
Opening times: 10 am to 8 pm.
8. Galerie Véro-Dodat
Galerie Véro-Dodat was built in 1826 and was one of the first covered passages to get gas lighting in 1830.
What’s it like? It looks very high end, with attractive wood-panelled shop fronts, ornate ceilings and a smart paved floor. The shop units include a luthier, an art gallery and a Christian Louboutin boutique.
Maybe its just chance, but each time I visit, there is hardly anyone there, so to me, it feels like it’s lacking energy.
Where is it: You can find entrances to Galerie Véro-Dodat at 19 Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau and 2 Rue Bouloi, in the 1st arrondissement, near the Louvre.
Closest Metro station: Louvre – Rivoli
Opening times: Monday to Saturday, 7 am to 10 pm.
9. Passage Bourg l’Abbe
Built in 1828, Passage Bourg l’Abbe was originally longer than it is now, but the Haussmann redesign of central Paris enveloped some of its previous footprint.
What’s it like? It has a lovely grand entrance and some very handsome wood panelling on the shop fronts, which included some furniture antiques and a café. However, when I visited, many units were empty and there were hardly any shoppers, so it felt somewhat lifeless.
Where is it: You can find entrances to Passage du Bourg at 3 Rue de Palestro and Rue Saint-Denis, in the 2nd arrondissement.
Closest Metro station: Étienne Marcel
Opening times: Monday to Saturday, 7:30 am to 7:30 pm.
Covered Passages In Paris – With Niche Appeal
This category of covered passages may appeal to some people more than others or at certain times more than others due to the type of shop or eaterie that you’ll find there.
10. Passage Brady – South Asian Cuisine
Built in 1828, Passage Brady is also known as Little India and is one of the few covered passages I found that is open in the evening.
What’s it like? It feels like an extension of the streets around it – home to a mix of businesses and more about function than form. As well as hairdressers and a nail salon, there are a number of Indian, Pakistani, Bangladeshi, Mauritian and Reunion restaurants, so it could be a good destination if you’re in the mood for South-Asian cuisine.
Where is it: You can find entrances to Passage Brady at 46 Rue du Faubourg-Saint-Denis and Rue du Faubourg-Saint-Martin, in the 10th arrondissement.
Closest Metro station: Château d’Eau
Opening times: Monday to Saturday, 9.30 am to 11.30 pm; Sunday, 6 pm to 11.30 pm.
11. Passage Puteaux – Restaurants
Opened in 1839, at 29 meters, Passage Puteaux is the shortest of the covered passages of Paris.
What’s it like? It does retain some charming original features, including a section of a glass roof. However, it only has restaurants in its units, so it’s likely to be a destination only if you want to go to eat out at one of them.
Where is it: You can find entrances to Passage Puteaux at 28 rue Pasquier and 33 rue de l’Arcade, in the 8th arrondissement.
Closest Metro station: Saint-Augustin
Opening times: 2 pm to 1:30 Monday to Saturday; 2 pm to 12 am Sunday.
12. Cité Berryer / Le Village Royal – Luxury Retail
What’s it like? Well, the first thing to say is, I first found a reference to this place on a list of covered passages in Paris, but it’s not really a covered passage – only a small part of this shopping area is covered! Le Village Royal (I believe it was previously named Cité Berryer, but remained in 1994) is very pretty, though, and houses some luxury brands, including Dior and Chanel. It could be a good one to check out if you’re in the market for luxury shopping.
Where is it: You can find entrances to Le Village Royal at 24 Rue Boissy d’Anglas or 25 Rue Royale, in the 8th arrondissement.
Closest Metro station: Madeleine or Concorde
Opening times: Monday to Saturday, 10 am to 7 pm
13. Cour du Commerce Saint-André – Outdoor Cafe Bars
Another one that isn’t entirely covered: this passage on the left bank is covered at both ends but the middle section is open air.
This passage is a piece of Paris’s history. While the glass roof at the north end was added in 1823, when covered passages became fashionable, the passage dates back to the previous century. With its uneven original cobblestones, Cour du Commerce Saint-André gives us a rare glimpse of what Paris was like before the radical Haussmann modernisation.
It’s also here that the guillotine was first made and tested (on corpses) in 1792!
What’s it like? This place comes to life in the warm weather, when cafes and bars line the passage with benches for outdoor eating and drinking. As well as some boutiques and bars, you can fine Le Procope, one of Paris’ oldest restaurants.
Where is it: Bteween Boulevard Saint-Germain and Rue Saint-André des Arts in the 6th arrondissement.
Closest Metro station: Odéon
Covered Passages Worth A look – If You’re In The Area
14. Passage Moliere
Not far from the Les Halles shopping district is a small shopping passage – but it’s not really covered (only a tiny portion is). Many of the units in Passage Moliere were empty when I went, but it was attractive enough.
15. Galerie de la Madeleine
Galerie de la Madeline definitely does have some attractive style, but so many of the units are empty when I’ve been there. Plus the only other people there were on a cigarette break or begging – so I didn’t enjoy it that much. But maybe there’ll be more of a nice vibe at other times.
16-17. Passage des 2 Pavillions & Passage de Beaujolais
These two passages, both on the outskirts of the Jardin du Palais Royal, are simply very tiny. In Passage des 2 Pavillions, there’s just a workshop and a Pain Quotidian branch; and in Passage de Beaujolais, there’s one restaurant and it looked like a coffee shop was coming soon (based on my most recent visit) – so there isn’t much to make a special visit for!
However, they are both close to Galerie Vivienne and Galerie Colbert, so you could pop your head in if you’re curious, or if you’re nearby at Jardin du Palais Royal.
18. Passage Sainte Anne
This is really just a (connecting) walkway, which contains some boarded-up shop units. It does connect Rue Sainte-Anne with Passage Choiseul, though, so you can see it if you visit that passage (which, as I’ve said, is a really nice one) – but Passage Sainte Anne isn’t a worthy destination in and of itself.
Covered Passages In Paris That I Don’t Recommend
These are the covered passages I visited but don’t think are worth the effort for you to visit. This is for a range of reasons, but mainly because there’s not much in them or they’re a bit run-down and unpleasant to spend time in (unfortunately some parts of Paris are not beautiful and glamourous: something to expect if you want to avoid Paris Syndrome).
19. Galerie des Arcades
You might have high hopes for this covered passage because it’s off the Avenue des Champs-Élysées. But there’s not much that’s aspirational in this dated covered passage. It is more like a mini shopping arcade. And not a good one.
There’s a Starbucks close to the entrance, and plenty of shops, including jewellery, gifts, souvenirs and fashion – but it’s a bit ‘low rent’ and not worth visiting, in my opinion. I won’t be going back.
20. Passage du Havre
This covered passage is different to many of the others because Passage du Havre was completely rebuilt in the 1990s.
It’s got an attractive circular glass ceiling in the centre of this small t-shaped passage, but other than this, Passage du Havre looks just like a modern shopping centre. I’d only recommend it if you’re in the mood for mall-style shopping (although Printemps is nearby and is arguably a more magnetic shopping destination than this one).
21. Passage des Princes
Passages des Princes is currently closed (at the time of writing), so it’s not an option to visit. I am not sure if it will reopen or remain closed, at this point.
It was the last covered passage built in Paris, in 1860. It was then destroyed in 1985 and restored in 1995. Given it’s shuttered again now, it has had quite a tumultuous history!
It had an ugly modern entrance on Boulevard des Italiens, but inside the design is quite pleasant, with period features and an attractive stained glass dome in the middle. Before it closed, it had niche appeal because the shops there were all children’s toys, scale models and video games.
22. Passage du Caire
This extra-long covered passage feels quite depressing because it is clearly neglected and run-down. There are some cheap fashion and food places in Passage du Caire, but much of it is empty and bare (and not somewhere I enjoyed walking through).
23. Passage du Ponceau
Passage du Ponceau‘s also neglected and a bit seedy. There is a greasy spoon café and not much else. The area around it is a little rough, also (Rue Saint-Denis has a reputation for prostitution).
24. Passage Vendôme
Passage Vendôme is short and there’s not much there other than a pharmacy, a cafe, a shoe repair place and some graffiti. It is probably used more as a shortcut to and from Place de la République than a destination. I only saw two people there: one sleeping rough and the other eating their lunch, sheltering from some rain.
25. Passage du Prado
This is in one of the more dodgy-feeling areas of Paris, with lots of men hanging around outside (which often tends to make me nervous as a female solo traveller in Paris). The passage has some cheap phone shops near the entrance, was pretty dark and dingy – and to be honest I didn’t even want to walk in.
Map: Covered Passages in Paris
Here’s a map of the covered passages in Paris, broken into sections, as above:
How To Use This Map: Click the tab in the top left-hand corner of the map to view the layers. If you click the icons on the map, you can get more information about each one. If you click the star next to the map’s title, it will be added to your Google Maps account. To view it on your phone or computer, open Google Maps, click the menu, go to ‘Your Places’ or ‘Saved’, then click Maps and you will see this map in your list.
Covered Passages In Paris That Are Clustered Together
As you will see in the map above, there are several clusters of covered passages in Paris, which can easily be visited together.
- Passages Verdeau, Jouffroy and Panoramas run on from one another in a long line, so you could enjoy them all one after the other, either starting in the north with Passage Verdeau or in the south with Panoramas. I actually include this triple passage visit in my itinerary for 4 days in Paris.
- Galerie Colbert, Galerie Vivienne and Passage Des 2 Pavillions and Passage de Beaujolais are all very close to each other, and could be combined with a visit to Jardin du Palais Royal.
- Passage Bourg l’Abbe ends and Passage du Grand Cerf starts almost opposite each other on Rue Saint-Denis.
Where To Stay Near A Covered Passage In Paris
If you like the idea of having one of these charming covered passages near where you stay, perhaps using one of the cafes as your regular breakfast spot – I’ve got you! I have stayed at a hotel in Paris which is close to several of my favourite covered passages.
Hôtel Diva Opéra is a boutique 4-star hotel in Fauberg-Montmartre, which is very close to Passages Verdeau, Jouffroy and Panoramas. I opted out of breakfast at the hotel, and instead ate at cafes in the passages, my favourite being Le Valentin Jouffroy in Passage Jouffroy.
Other Hotels in Paris
If you want some more hotel ideas, here are some of the other Paris hotels I have stayed at myself recently, and I’d happily recommend:
La Finca Hôtel & Spa (formerly the Hotel Auberge Flora) is a 3-star hotel in the hip Bastille area, which has lots of bars and cafes. The rooms are small but comfortable and have all the amenities you need. They have a bar downstairs and they offer a simple, tasty breakfast.
Terrass” Hotel in Montmartre is a stylish 4-star hotel with two big plus-points: some rooms and suites have a view of the Eiffel Tower; and it has a nice rooftop restaurant and terrace bar – again, with great views.
Hotel Regina Louvre is a grand old 5-star hotel next to the Louvre in the 1st arrondissement. It is traditional, luxurious, stylish and some rooms have a view of the Eiffel Tower – including mine!
For more Paris hotel recommendations, read my post on the best place to stay in Paris for first-timers.
To Conclude
If you end up visiting a covered passage in Paris, I hope you enjoy it! Let me know if you have any favourites in the comments below.
For more history of the covered passages, check out the French website, Passages et Galeries.
Do also have a look at my other Paris blogs, including Paris in one day, Paris in two days and Springtime in Paris. Oh, and if you’re a solo traveller (or would like to be) you might find my comprehensive guide to travelling solo in Paris helpful.
Enjoy browsing the passages in Paris!
